(preferably Frank’s Red Hot).

, an uncooked almost-slaw of chiles, shallots, makrut lime or Key lime juice, and coconut oil, often mixed by hand.It's hot, slightly crunchy, tart, rich, and an ideal base for other ingredients, which, depending on the cook's preference, might include terasi, lemongrass, or (my favorite) sweet and floral torch ginger buds.

But that was just the beginning.A lunch at the house of photographer Dewandra Djelantik featured 10 sambal made by his mother, including one with green chiles that had been braised in the drippings from chicken grilled over coconut husks.. Once upon a time, Djelantik hadn't even really liked sambal.But after he got married, his mother-in-law kept feeding him spicy dishes, and his state of mind shifted: "I said to my wife, 'Why haven't we made any spicy food at home yet?'

'Because you don't like any spicy food!'"He grew to love it so much that he helped organize a local chile festival starting in 2010, which today features 156 different sambal, some of them semi-mythical, like one from Bali's Payangan district made with grilled eel bones.

I searched for it but never found it.. "That kind of sambal is not in the market," Djelantik said.

"It's only in the family.".finely chopped jarred piquillo peppers, patted dry.

pimentón dulce (sweet paprika).1/16-inch-thick.

jamón serrano or prosciutto slices.4 1/2-inch-wide.